A Complete Wrap-Up of the First Three Months

INTRODUCTION

Okay, so first of all, I would like to apologize. I have not been the best at submitting posts, as is evident by their erratic appearances. I know I said that I would blog often, so it is time to live up to my part of the bargain.

However, one thing that I did not want to do, is turn the blog into an online journal. I have a lot to share, but I did not want the blog to become to interpersonal. I'm not really a fan of blogs like that. I instead wanted it to be commentary, observational, and in general, just thoughts, BUT NOT a journal.

Regardless and maybe inevitably, it is time for people to know a little bit more about what happens in my daily life. I honestly cannot remember if I have written all this before, but in very blunt terms, this is what happens. This is the lowdown. May all your questions be answered.

My Program
I am a volunteer with WorldTeach. I applied with them in January 2008. They placed me at a school in China. I am not their employee but to ensure that I am paid on time, they do pay me, after the school pays them. Yes, we are paid as volunteers (how else would you be able to eat?).

There are certain obligations I have to fulfill with WorldTeach despite not being an employee. These include: completing a 3-week orientation training (check); completing a 3-day mid-service training in March; completing a 3-day end of service training in June; submitting weekly teaching assessments; submitting weekly "ups and downs"; holding a bi-monthly phone call with the assistant field director or field director; having one of the latter observe me teach (at least once during the academic year); and submitting a monthly submission of my best lesson plan.

WorldTeach has two full time employees, a field director and assistant field director, that handle the in-country operations. Basically, they look out for us over here. All they ask is that we keep them informed, tell them when we travel, fulfill our obligations mentioned above etc.

My School
I am employed as a full-time teacher at Yali Boarding Middle School in Changsha, Hunan, China. Yali has two campuses in Changsha. The main one and the boarding school. The main campus is in downtown Changsha. They even have their own Wikipedia article : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yali_School

Most Chinese always say, "Oh, you work at a very good school, excellent school or famous school." It is true.


The boarding school (known as "Nanya") where I live and work, is in the Southeast part of town (Guitang). Think of it like this: If Changsha was New York, the Yali main campus would be in Manhattan (upper-west side), my campus would be in Brooklyn.

There are 5,000 students at my school. It is a middle school, which is the equivalent of grades 6-12 in the states. Half of the students board here, half commute.

Teaching

I started teaching on September 1st. Even though our contracts stipulate that we do not have to teach over 16 classes per week, the school pretty much insisted that we teach more. I am up to 18 classes per week and 1 English Corner (which is basically a free-for-all activity period where students are "supposed" to speak English only). It never works out like that.

I teach three Junior 1 advanced classes (10-12 year olds) and four Junior 2 advanced classes (12-15 year olds). Each of those classes meet twice a week, for a total of 14 classes. I also teach four regular Junior 1 classes.

The advanced classes have about 30-35 students per class. The regular classes have about 60-65 students per class. In all I teach approximately 730 students a week. The students in the regular classes basically can form only simple sentences and are significantly noisier than the advanced classes. In total, I teach 18 classes per week.

I was teaching Monday through Friday. However, I moved my Monday classes to get a three-day weekend. So now, I have schedule over the course of four days: Tuesday 4 classes, plus English Corner; Wednesday, 5 classes; Thursday, 6 classes; Friday, 3 classes.

There are numerous staff and teachers at Yali, I do not know the exact number. Most live on campus, I would say.

I teach Oral English. The sole purpose of my teaching is to get the students to SPEAK IN ENGLISH. Sounds simple, it isn't.

Difficulties I encounter include typical childhood behavior at those ages, a more immature nature in general (I believe that Chinese students mature at later ages than American students), incessant talking when I speak or when other students talk, and overall a more laid back attitude taken during my classes (they are viewed as a free period, whereas they would dare not dream to be so rambunctious with a Chinese teacher).

At school, I report really to no one. The hierarchical structure is quite similar to a University system in the states (well, sort of). Their is a Department Chair for each subject, a head of Teaching Affairs and Student Affairs, Head Principal, etc. As a foreign teacher, all my questions and problems go through a liaison.

The school has basketball, track and soccer teams but they do not really compete like they do back in the States. I have not really figured out how interscholastic activities work here, if they exist and to what extent. I know their are clubs (English, Radio Station, Guitar).

On campus, the foreign teachers, of which their are four, (all WorldTeach volunteers) share their own office BUT have their own classroom. This is a big perk. Most volunteers do not have their own classroom. It is great. It took some time, but we got locks on our doors, which really helps keep out "unwanted guests", meaning other students who absolutely trash the classroom, leaving everything from cigarette butts to Noodles in the desks and on the floor.

Most classrooms are equipped with projectors and t.v.s. Mine is not. Classrooms here are quite the spectacle. I teach using chalk and an eraser with some visual aids, I print out or from magazines, maps, postcards, etc. I was using a laptop and teaching in the student's homeroom but it is a hassle. Most classrooms also have a security camera. Most of the time, I think they do not even tape anything but I do feel like Big Brother is watching me.

Teaching

For any class over the maximum 16 that I work, I am paid an extra 120 RMB (renminbi) a class. So for two classes and the English Corner, I pull in an additional 360 RMB (renminbi) per week. That is about $53 USD.

I am paid the equivalent of about 2450 RMB/$352 USD per month as a volunteer. So in total, I make at about 3400 RMB/ $500 USD per month. If I tutor I charge a rate of 150 RMB per hour. I have not been doing much of it, just because it can be more valuable to have free time. At least in my opinion.

This may not seem like a lot of money but in comparison to the national per capita income of $6800 USD a year, I get paid very well. That per capita figure is highly skewed here and not accurate (read: tremendous socio-economic stratification).

I would guess that most, MOST, Chinese make less than 1000 RMB per month.

The school pays for my apartment and I am allotted a certain number of Kilowatt hours for electricity, etc. over the course of the year. If I go over on usage or make long distance phone calls on my apartment's land line, I pay for it. This really isn't a problem since I have a cell phone. Everyone in China has cell phones. I wanted to go without one but it is pretty much a necessity over here now.

Speaking of which, my cell phone is pay as you go, which is sort of annoying but sort of great. I text people more than I call because it costs a lot less.

In terms of living situation, I live by myself and the three other American WorldTeach volunteers live next door to me (each has their own apartment as well). Our apartments are considerably bigger than other teachers and have Western toilets.

Try squatting just once and you will learn the appreciation of Western style toilets. Frustrations in the apartment include the mold that festers on clothing, the earthworms in the shower, the ants in the kitchen, the general dampness of my clothes or bedding because of the relentless humidity. I have hot water for showers (lasts about 3 -4 minutes tops), AC/heater, a water boiler, propane stove, water cooler, tv, internet.

Apartment came furnished with bed and Asian style furniture (wood with thin cushioning).

Goods and Shopping

China has anything and everything you could possibly imagine. I have never seen so much "STUFF" in my life. China is the king of production. I used to shake my hed at how much Americans consumed, or how stocked our grocery stores were. It does not even compare to China. Like I said before, you can find anything here and if you can't find it, you aren't looking hard enough. China appears to have an appetite for consumption, so let's hope they adopt Green technology FAST.

There is an American presence in Changsha. There are three Wal Marts, a Metro (German version of Sam's Club), Two Carrefours (French version of Targets) and numerous Chinese versions of the latter. There are countless convenience stores, bubble tea shops, salons, hardware stores, etc.

In terms of purchasing goods, I had this grand expectation that Changsha was basically the middle of nowhere. I gave the Chinese economy no credit. It is the second strongest in the world, meaning that you can find anything, especially in a large city (save Cheese, which I do not even remember when I had last). However, Metro sells cheese but I never go there.

Imported products are more expensive (peanut butter for example). Coffee is catching on but not as big as tea (obviously). There are chains of coffee shops and in large cities like Beijing and Shanghai the streets are inundated with Starbucks. Though, if you know me, you know that I am anti-Starbucks, so this is pointless.

Nevertheless, there is a lot of "Americanization", whatever that means, but basically most of the businesses are Chinese owned and operated franchises, mom and pops or local chains. They have the Chinese equivalent of Wal Mart or Target (RT Mart, Bu Bu Gao) which I will usually shop at if I need to find something and no it is there for convenience sake (i.e. a windbreaker I just bought).

In terms of food, I eat out a lot more than I cook. For the equivalent of about .75 US cents, I can get a great meal. I do not crave Western food at all. McDonalds and KFC are huge here. I buy all my fruits, vegetables and meats from the local market, which is outside and sells everything from live fish, crabs and ducks to watermelon and tofu.

Ironically, the Chinese do not refrigerate eggs, yogurt, or milk (which DON'T WORRY MOM, I have not been drinking) but it lasts longer. Big chains like Wal Mart or the other ones I mentioned refrigerate their meat BUT....BUT BUT BUT...you cannot barter for prices at those places.

Speaking of which, that is the best part of street shopping here, because you can always negotiate. In terms of some food items, I have an older woman that I frequent at the market and she usually hooks me up with garlic cloves or some peppers for free. Other than that, a street merchant will break out an old fashioned scale and weigh your fruit, vegetables and meat and then give a price.

Do they rip me off? At times, they may, Chinese merchants do look to take advantage of the "waigouren" (foreigner), but it all evens out in the end I think. Most of the time, the price is fair. If all else fails (this is more true for goods or souvenirs than food) you can just walk away. They will chase you down and give you the price you want. I actually had a woman run after me for about a quarter mile in Hangzhou trying to sell me tea.

Rice is cheap (most restaurants you are not charged for it, or it is serve yourself), and yes, I eat it all the time. Noodles are in abundance. At more modern restuarants, you are charged for plates and napkins. Most bathrooms are bring-your-own toilet paper.

Peppers, oils, pork, etc. I eat more eggplant (chiazi) than you could imagine. Basically, the food ALONE is worth coming to China for, and if anyone ever tells you to not eat on the street, punch them straight in the mouth. Don't question it. Knock on wood, I have not vomited from anything (at the time I wrote this I hadn't but this past weekend I did) and I have eaten some questionable things.

I have not tried dog yet, but I will. Overall though, besides the sea urchins and starfish I saw in Beijing, nothing is really grotesque and even if it is, that is no excuse to try it. Though, I could say I am not a fan of fish here. It is really just not appetizing and too bony. I never order it.

Hunan Cuisine

The province I live in, Hunan, is said to have the second spiciest food in China (Sichuan province having the spiciest). I could not handle it at first. I would sweat bullets. Now, it is not uncommon for me to order a pepper filled dish and add more peppers to it. I cannot seem to get it hot enough and often crave the spice if I leave the province.

In terms of other cuisines, Northern food, consisting of dumplings (jiaozi) and steamed buns (baozi), more breads basically, can be found on the street or in restaurants. I eat like a pig here because the food is so damn good. Is it the healthiest? That is debatable. It is all cooked in oil, fried, but then again, who knows. I guess my cholesterol reading will be the judge of that.

Health and Fitness

Despite the fact that I eat off the street a lot and in dive back-alley restaurants, I have lost 25 pounds since I came here. I attribute this to the fact that the food is oily, spicy and generally filled with vegetables. I also did not (haha) sustain much in my system for the first month. Green tea, of which I drink plenty, also suppresses my appetite. Most of the guy volunteers I know here have lost muscle and weight, while the girls have put weight on. Overall, I feel like I eat less but who knows. If it looks or smells good, I eat it.

Physically, I have tendinitis in both Achilles tendons. An ailment I attribute to running and playing too much tennis before I came to China. IT SUCKS BIG TIME! I cannot run, play basketball or badminton. I've had to turn down a lot of offers, which I do not think the Chinese look highly upon. I just explain to them as best I can that I am hurt. They understand and after several weeks of non-activity and icing I am hoping for an improvement. It seems to be getting better.

I have joined a gym though. Completely modern with yoga, palates and spinning classes. Like everywhere else in China, I am a spectacle and just embrace the fact that people stare at me when I workout. Hey, they are just curios. It's not a big deal. The people at the gym I work at our great, but you can definitely tell that the fitness craze is new to China. They just don't seem to get it and jeans, sandals and topless Men are pretty much the norm in the weight room.

Customs, Culture Shock, Expectations

A lot of people think that the way the Chinese live their daily life and some of their habits are rude. I think the opposite on some things and completely agree with others. Honestly, I love the fact that you can blow your nose (snot rocket style) and spit on the street, bus, restaurant floor, etc. Farting, belching, slapping their lips while eating, everything an American would consider taboo, is game here. That being said, the more sophisticated cities do have less "obnoxious" behavior. I look at it like this, there are 1.3 billion people here. If you gotta spit, you gotta spit.

The one thing that I cannot deal with is pushing and crowding in line. Though I admit I will do it, I have had some success speaking Chinese to people, which immediately tells them that I do not appreciate being pushed or crowded in front of. The Chinese relate to space differently. This has to be a by-product of living in such a crowded society. Basically, they are always looking for more space. If they see it, they take it. I still find myself waiting for people to go in front of me if it is crowded and then realize that I will be waiting there forever because that favor will not be returned. Old women are the worst! I literally nudged one out of my way in a line to a museum in Shanghai. She tried sidling me to get a head and homey don't play that. You might think it is mean, but don't knock it til you've dealt with it. I've also had to extend both hands to play traffic cop at a bus stop in Beijing just so people don't trample each other getting on the bus. My greatest victory was getting lay-in lines formed at a pick-up basketball game. Order in China? Surely, you jest.

The Chinese are a paradox, worried about appearance and oblivious to it at the same time. Women for the most part dress provocatively. Young men, wear more upscale urban clothing. It is not uncommon to see men wearing business suits working construction. All this revolves around poverty and the long climb out of it, which I don't have the time to get into. Overall, the new fashions in China are incredible in my opinion.

Overall though, they are just not so G** Damn uptight as Americans. Casual is the norm, though Chinese fashion is pretty amazing. Women and young people like to look good, even if it means wearing the same outfit over and over again. Hair is big here. Figuratively and literally. I have seen men with some great cuts. Flock of Seagulls anyone?

Most men grow out their fingernails, a sign that they do not have to work in the field to make a living (or so I have heard). Machismo is everywhere with the males but its all good. As a man, I have a huge advantage. Not only am I more respected by my students, but other Chinese men are quick to offer me drinks and cigarettes and just strike up a conversation. Women are not viewed the same and are not expected to drink nor smoke.

Babies and children are the center of the Universe here, or so it seems. Note to self: Do not try to make your students draw a family tree. It is quite odd to ask a class of 65 how many of them have brothers and sisters and see only 2 or 3 hands go up. (One child policy).

Time, Deadlines, Scheduling, Bureaucracy. These are a few of my least favorite things. Time here is relative. Trains generally are punctual but the cab or bus you take to get there is not always reliable.

Typically, a Chinese person's day looks like so:

5am-6am: Wake up. Morning exercises, etc.
6am-7am: Breakfast
7am-12pm: Work
12pm-2pm: Lunch/Siesta
2pm-5pm: Work
5pm-7pm: Dinner
7pm-12am: Whatever

It is kind of annoying being out where I live. It can take as long as two hours to get to downtown but also take as short as 35 minutes depending on traffic congestion. Also, you really have to plan your life around the bus system. For instance, trying to catch a bus around 5pm-6pm will take longer because the drivers take dinner breaks (as well as lunch and breakfast breaks). The buses. All of them in the city, just basically stop running.

Planning and scheduling are done on the fly. I have learned at the last minute that a class has been canceled or shown up to my room or the student's homeroom to find no one there. It just happens that way. You just have to roll with it and not let it frustrate you. This has proved to be a daunting challenge because some things in China are very structured (classes at the gym, train times, school bells), but the general flow of life is lucid and flexible. Meaning that there is constant conflict between modernization and functionality and the elasticity with which most Chinese lead their life.

This in turn, makes it difficult to adjust too as an American, growing up in a society that is highly structured, functional and organized. (Note, I did not say that that is necessarily better) I can already tell that I will HATE waiting at crosswalks like sheep when I come back to the United States.

Speaking of Which....


My Future

I finished applying to law school in early October. I applied to several schools looking at schools that had programs in public interest, international and comparative law and the ability to study human rights laws. Basically, I wanted a school with a good international focus. Now it is just a waiting game.

However I do have to say that my options are open. China is an up-and-coming place and the ability to find a job here is enticing. There is a lot of foreign investment and with the economy the way it is, who knows what will happen.

Disconnected is how I feel right now. I really try to keep with what goes on back in the states. Obviously, the election was followed closely but other than that, I have no real gauge. China just has that ability to do that to you. There is so much going on.

Most likely I will know about law school by March and am hoping to have decided on my plans by that time as well. I may go to Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou or Hong Kong just to test the waters of the job market. I would consider coming back as a teacher in a larger city and using that to prolong my stay in the country. I am definitely not coming back as a volunteer teacher. That much I have decided.


Environment

Pollution is a big problem here. Trash is everywhere. The air is dark, hazy and dusty. Dust, dust, dust. Construction, construction. Actually, since I live out of town, the air is cleaner. At times, you can see the sky above our campus and be able to see a hazy gray line over downtown and inner Changsha. So, basically, the pollution is doable here. You get used to it but if you have respiratory or severe allergy issues, you would probably hate China.

The City of Changsha

Changsha (Population: 6,470,000)

The city of Changsha is strange to me. It is big and small at the same time. I think it would be bigger than any other city in the states besides New York. Yet, it is only the 19th most populated city in China. Their is plenty to do in terms of entertainment, though.

For big cultural stuff (opera, concerts), I think Changsha is a bust. But, there is always something to entertain you in China.

Travel

China is a diverse place with many places to see. Deciding where to go can be daunting because there are so many places. Overall, train travel is the cheapest most effective way to get around. Of course, during the three major holiday periods, it is excruciatingly difficult to book train tickets. Just takes a lot of patience. Imagine a country of 1.3 billion all trying to travel at the same time. The infrastructure shudders at the thought of it.

My trips thus far include...

August

Hengshan (Nanyue): The southernmost of China's 5 Taoist mountains. Hiked it in late August with hordes of Chinese tourists, buses and lots of rain and mist at the top. Hiked with Maggie (Wisconsin), Caroline (North Carolina) and Neal (Hawaii). Spent a night on the mountain and got up early the next day to get to the top.

September

Mid_Autumn Festival (September 19-21): Two nights in Wulingyaun and two days hiking in Zhangjiajie National Forest. Went with Stephanie (California) and Maggie (Wisconsin).

October

Shanghai: Over "Golden Week", the week long break given for China's October 1st National Day, I traveled to Shanghai for four nights and three days. Visited The Bund, French Concession, British Concession, M50 and "Chinatown", you would understand if you have ever visited this place.

Hangzhou: Spent two days biking and walking around Xi Lu (west Lake) and Longjing village (where the world famous tea is grown. Spent an afternoon in a tea house with some locals. Very nice. Most beautiful city I have been to in China and in my opinion rivals a lot in Western Europe.

Rolled solo. Met up with Daria (Washington) and Joe (Oregon) for dinner one night.

October 17-20: Taking advantage of my newly acquired 3 day weekends (I moved to classes so that I always have Mondays off), I went to Yangshuo (via Guilin) with my friend Stephani (from California). This place is Amazing. Biked around for 2 and a half days, went on a bamboo raft ride, beautiful scenery. Middle of nowhere. Amazing.

November 7-10: Beijing (Great Wall at Simatai, The Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, Summer Palace, various Hutongs (old alley ways), Chaoyang bar district, Wangfujing Snack Street

Solo. Beijing is AWESOME!

Election

All I can say about the election of Barack Obama as president is that several Chinese people have asked me about it, all have favored it and it brought tears to my eyes (and continues to do so).


Friends



With more than 50 volunteers, about half of which live in Changsha, you can find other Americans to hang out with. However, I think that by doing so, you are robbing yourself of the experience. It is difficult at times to be at a school with other Westerners. For the simple fact, that the "ugly American" syndrome can rear its head. I do have a couple close friends from the group of volunteers.

However, I have spent a great deal of my time getting to know and make Chinese friends. I do have one really good friend here (MJ), who studies at Hunan University. I have also met a ton of other people and do my best to build the relationship. I do think that if I had a better grasp on the language, it would be so much easier to build relationships. However, students in particular, can speak English. Many of them very well.

Language
The most frustrating part and the most rewarding challenge is learning the Chinese language. I took Chinese 101 for four months at the University I worked at but because of time and work, did not study until I came to China.

Have I improved> Yes, I study on my own at random times (though I will start being more structured with this). I usually, study and then go out and talk with locals. Yesterday, I spent about an hour at a market drilling myself on the names of vegetables. I can definitely buy train tickets, order and get around on my own. Having casual conversation is too difficult at this point. I can read some Chinese characters (thank you God for blessing me with a photographic memory) and I routinely text message Chinese friends in Pinyin. The latter is the Roman alphabet version of mandarin.

So overall, I have made great strides but I need to become BETTER BETTER BETTER. Especially, if I was to stay and find work. Other than that, I will be adopting. Starting today, a more rigorous study schedule. Which brings me to my conclusion.

WHAT HAVE I BEEN DOING SINCE JULY 30, 2008? MY EXPECTATIONS. MY GOALS

Well, as you can see I have done and experienced a great deal since the end of July. I have been shocked and elated. I have had expectations shattered and other ones reaffirmed. Case in point: I thought I would do tai-chi all the time but I don't. No time for it.

As far as goals, I think they are realistic and attainable and I am well on my way to accomplishing them...

1) Learn Chinese. First, learn spoken Mandarin and how to write in Pinyin, then learn how to read Characters. Finally, learn to write the characters (or at least type in them).

2) TRAVEL. Already I have seen some amazing places. I just found out that I will get about 7-8 weeks off for Spring Festival (Chinese New Year). I will be leaving the country as transportation in China will be absurd. I am planning a trip to Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, Malaysia and Singapore. Time and money pending, I may do India. At the end of service, I am planning on Mongolia and the upper-Northwest part of China. I really want to do Tibet. Taking a train back to Europe, across Eurasia, has also crossed my mind. Seriously.

3) Make Chinese friends. I do think I have really gotten to know some Chinese people, mostly students at local Universities. This is an area that I will continue to focus on as the relationships are quite rewarding.

In terms of other things, I do know that it is a struggle at times but I would not change it for the world. China is a BIG place, with BIG hopes and a long, history. There is much to see and learn.

So, I will TRY MY BEST to blog everyday.

Email me.

Skype me.

View my pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/clevengerinchina

Take care.

-Out.